Aotearoa: New Zealand - The Land of the Long White Cloud...

October 2010


A few years ago, soon after my first taste of long-distance cycling (on a supported tour), I took advantage of a discount airfare bargain to visit New Zealand for a hiking and motor touring holiday.

During my visit I encountered a number of cycle tourists and it occurred to me that this would be a really great way to experience the stunning NZ landscapes.

I was inspired to take up cycle touring, and in 2009 made a circumnavigation of Tasmania for my first tour.

It's taken a while, but now I'm going back to spend a month getting intimate with New Zealand, by riding 1500 kms around the South Island.

I'm a little reluctant to publish so far out from my departure date, but the flights are booked so I'm more or less committed, and only the unforeseen will prevent me from going. Others are interested in my plans so I'll publish now. Any cycle tourists planning something similar are welcome to contact me.

Update: With only two weeks until departure, things are looking good. Of course there is a still a rush to complete work commitments, but nothing is going to stop me now. I've been accumulating bits'n'pieces of equipment all year - now it's time to start thinking what I'm actually going to take with me, and start packing.

Update: Finally the time has passed, work is over and I'm on holidays. It's been a very busy and sometimes stressful last few weeks, and it's going to take some time to wind down. Once I get to Christchurch it will be time to relax and absorb the experience.

Maps and Information: Hmmm - apart from the flat bits, there are a lot of hills...

Useful Links
New Zealand has become adept at marketing itself as a tourism destination, and a quick search of the internet will reveal a plethora of information for intending visitors.

A great place to start looking is the Tourism New Zealand web site, while the cycle tourist will find much useful information on the CycleTour New Zealand website.

An excellent guide book is Nigel Rushton's "Pedallers' Paradise", and the NZ Camping guide has a comprehensive listing of camp grounds and accommodation. I ordered the electronic version by email and installed it on my netbook.

Tourists arriving at Christchurch Airport will find very good bicycle facilities await them. Mobile phones and SIMM cards can be rented at the Vodafone Rentals Kiosk. Luggage Solutions offers services such as luggage storage, excess baggage shipping, and bike boxes. A handy Christchurch Cycling map is available from the airport.

If you prefer a transfer from the airport to your accommodation the Super Shuttle service uses mini-buses with baggage trailers and is very economical.
Bookings for the TransAlpine and other train services can be made on the Transcenic web site.

The Route
Starting from Christchurch my route will cross the Canterbury Plains before heading over Burke's Pass for the highlands and lakes of MacKenzie Country, then over Lindis Pass to Wanaka in the the heart New Zealand's ski fields.

From Wanaka I'll ride down the Haast Pass to the wild west coast, and follow the coast north past the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers to Greymouth.

Leaving Greymouth I'll go a little inland to Reefton, then back east over the Rahu Saddle and Lewis Pass to the hot springs at Hanmer.

After Hanmer Springs I'll turn south back toward Christchurch, but then abruptly west again and tackle Arthur's Pass and the Otira Gorge returning to Greymouth, where I'll celebrate the finish of the tour by taking the Trans-Alpine train back to Christchurch.


View Larger Map
Itinerary
This is the plan, but I'm prepared to be flexible if necessary. There are a couple of days buffer at the end in case of any delays -if they are not used I'll spend them sightseeing around the Christchurch area, and perhaps take a trip to Akaroa.



New Zealand Climate: Wet and wetter...

Eastern South Island
The climate of this zone is greatly dependent on the lie of the massive Southern Alps to the west. Summer temperatures are warm, with highest temperatures occurring when hot dry foehn northwesterlies blow over the Alps and plains. Mean annual rainfall is low, and long dry spells can occur, especially in summer. For much of the time summer temperatures are moderated by a cool northeasterly sea breeze.

Typical summer daytime maximum air temperatures range from 18°C to 26°C, but may rise to more than 30°C. A temperature of 42°C has been recorded in Christchurch. Winters are cold with frequent frost. Typical winter daytime maximum air temperatures range from 7°C to 14°C. Northeasterlies prevail about the coast for much of the year. Southwesterlies are more frequent during winter.


Western South Island
The climate of this area is greatly dependent on its exposure to weather systems from the Tasman Sea and the lie of the Southern Alps to the east. Although mean annual rainfall is very high, dry spells do occur, especially in late summer and during winter. Heavy rainfall occurs from the northwest. Summers are mild.

Typical summer daytime maximum air temperatures range from 17°C to 22°C and seldom exceed 25°C. Winter days often start with frost. Typical winter daytime maximum air temperatures range from 10°C to 14°C. Northnortheast winds prevail along the coast in Westport and Hokitika while southwesterlies prevail in coastal areas further south. Sea breezes can occur on warm summer days.

Bike and Baggage: The trusty treadly and swag...

I have been riding a Surly Long haul Trucker which I purchased complete, but I'm about to replace it with my own custom-built Sabbath Silk Route.
Update: This a fait accompli - the new bike is fully fettled and ready to go. Here are some pictures.





My equipment is almost entirely lightweight gear which I have used extensively for bushwalking in Australia and trekking in Nepal. My philosophy is to carry no more weight on my bike than I would on my back, that is, less than 20 kg, and preferably, no more than 15 kg. Here are my gear selections and checklist.

Packing: No more nightmares...

Fortunately my airline has retained its generous sporting goods policy for international flights. This policy means the bike represents only 5 kg of my luggage allowance, so there should be no repeat of the expensive excess baggage charges incurred on my Giro Tasmania.

For this trip I've decided to leave my bike bag at home and use a bike box instead. A box is lighter and roomier, so I shouldn't need to do as much disassembly to pack the bike.

Update: There has been a change of plan - my accommodation in Christchurch has storage facilities, so I'm going to take the bike bag after all. So once again I'll have to go through the routine of disassembly and packing that I really dislike, but with castor wheels the bike bag is a lot easier to handle than a box, and with a liberal luggage allowance there isn't really any reason not to take it. And after packing my Surly for shipment to his new home, I realise that it isn't any easier to pack a bike into a box.

Update: So now I'm all packed and ready to go. I'm getting a ride to the airport from a fellow cyclist and former work colleague (thanks David), which spares me the hassle and expense of using a maxi taxi.
Once again I have a feeling that I've packed to much, and will probably have a minor cull in Christchurch, once I get a feel for the local weather conditions.

The nightmare returns - getting everything in is a real effort, but with castor wheels in its base, the bag is the most convenient way to handle a bike.

All zipped up and ready to go - 22 kg to check in after my sporting goods allowance, 2 kg more than my total baggage allowance...

A shaky start to a tour of the Shaky Isles: The day the earth moved...

Yesterday I was in a hiking gear shop and mentioned to the salesperson that I would be touring New Zealand next month. He asked me if I was going to Christchurch, and mentioned that he'd heard a sketchy news report about a storm or something...

Later, I caught the evening news and was dismayed to discover that there had been a massive earthquake (7.1 magnitude) at the city. The epicentre was near Darfield, a tiny hamlet right on my touring route. There has been widespread damage but fortunately few serious injuries. The city is in lockdown and with many services disrupted. See NZ news reports here.

This news really rams home the reason why NZ is known as the "Shaky Isles". Whilst there are no thoughts at all to cancel my tour, I might have to revise my itinerary. I had planned on spending a couple of nights both inbound and outbound but will have to wait and see what accommodation options remain operational.

Meanwhile, I extend my sympathies and best wishes to the people of Christchurch.

Update: I emailed my planned accommodation in Christchurch on the weekend and received a prompt reply advising the venue is fully operational. This is great news and means I won't have to change my itinerary, so I made booking right away.

Update: Yesterday there was another magnitude 5 earthquake in Christchurch - I may be in for a bit of rock'n'roll...

Update: And another magnitude 5 earthquake today - fasten your seat belts...

Christchurch: Sunday so far away...


Monday October 25, 2010

At 8:30 on a Monday morning, the streets of Christchurch were empty. I wandered through them in eery silence, looking at the damage wrought by a magnitude 7.1 earthquake. Around me there were barricades, scaffolding, and ominous gaps in the streetscape.

As I stood contemplating the rather odd sight of a cyclist riding the underside a massive steel beam bracing the wall of a church, a voice came from behind me.'It seems worse every time I see it'. A battered local in weather-beaten clothing, riding an equally battered ladies bike, had wheeled up behind me. Looking down a street completely closed off by barricades, he explained. 'See that red brick building on the left - it was built in 1910, and was once the city's tallest building. There is a court injunction to prevent it from being demolished.' It seems the local authorities haste to condemn and demolish played into the hands of some property owners who were only too happy to call in the wreckers.

But where is everybody I inquired. 'Did they all leave after the earthquake?' 'No', he laughed. 'It's Labour Day in New Zealand - it's a public holiday, and everything is closed'.

Hmmmm - this was not good news. My mission today was to obtain food for the road, fuel, chain lube, and a prepaid SIM card for my phone. I hadn't counted on a public holiday. I pressed on through the empty streets, hoping to at least locate the shops I needed, so I could make a quick dash before leaving tomorrow.

Eventually I saw a bike shop across the street, and to my surprise, the door was open, but the store seemed deserted. After calling out a few times a salesperson appeared, and I was able to tick an item off my list: chain lube. I asked about a supermarket, and discovered that the supermarket in the the mall across the road was also open. Tick off another two items: food and fuel. Only one item remains, but I couldn't get a SIM card anywhere, and will have to wait for the local telco's shop to open tomorrow.

The flight from Brisbane yesterday passed quickly - in just over 3 hours flying time. Dealing with the tedium of customs, immigration, quarantine, and security procedures at both ends took just as long. The New Zealand officials courteously but thoroughly checked my bike, tent, and some food supplies I had brought along with me, before declaring it was all 'sweet as'.

After a quick stop at an airport ATM for some local currency, I found a shuttle bus, and by 5:30 (NZ time) I has checked in at my hotel, a cheap and cheerful hostel in a rambling old building not 5 minutes from the city centre. There was not much open late on Sunday afternoon but I found an Irish pub and was soon tucking into a couple of pints of the local ale and my first non-airport/airline food for the day.

Cathedral Square is undoubtedly the centre of Christchurch, and in particular it is the tourist centre. The precinct around the square abounds with tacky souvenir shops, backpacker hostels and internet cafés. I took a quick lap of the square and some of the adjoining streets then returned to the hotel to assemble the bike. A few hours later, and I was pretty much ready to load up and roll.

Whoa! - these kiwis can ride a bike anywhere...
Earthquake damage - whole city blocks are barricaded in places...

That is a big, fat, lazy trout - one of many in the Avon...

It does look how we antipodeans imagine England to be...

I just had to play tourist and take a ride on a tram...

The tourist guidebooks make much of the notion that Christchurch is the most "English" of antipodean cities. Straw boaters and punts on the Avon are certainly very twee, but I doubt the English would agree about its "Englishness"...

Christchurch - Glentunnel: Canterbury tales...

Tuesday October 26, 2010, 61 km (38 miles) - Total so far: 61 km (38 miles)

Time: 3:40 Distance: 61.13 km Average: 16.6 Max: 22.2 Altitude Gain: 298 m

It's day 1 of my NZ tour. Time to get out of bed and roll. It seemed to take forever to get my gear packed, put my luggage in storage, then get the bike loaded and out the door. Eventually I was rolling into the city - first to get my phone working, then to have breakfast and head out of town.

When I arrived in Christchurch on Sunday, I went straight to the Vodaphone kiosk in the airport terminal. The young woman attendant informed me she had already tried to install a prepaid micro SIM in two iPhones that day, but both had been network locked. I know mine isn't locked, 'cos I bought it from the Apple store, but it wouldn't work in mine either.

The Vodaphone store in Colombo Street - the one I had waited a day to open, couldn't help - they didn't have prepaid micro SIMs. They suggested another Vodaphone dealer a few kilometres away on Moorehouse Avenue, and in desperation I went there, expecting only bad news. No, they had no prepaid micro SIMs, but yes, they could help, by selling me a standard prepaid SIM service and immediately upgrading it to a micro SIM. Within 15 minutes I was on my way with a working phone.

I headed back into the city for the obligatory photo in the square, grabbed a quick breakfast and headed out of town, with only one more stop to pick up a salad roll for lunch, but it was already 10:30 am by the time I left.

After only 10 kilometres I was was on the western outskirts, and pleased to leave city traffic behind me. Houses gave way to neatly ordered fields bounded by tall, neatly manicured hedges - shelter belts for protection from the winds. Heading for Darfield, I briefly contemplated the old west coast road, an alternative route suggested by Peter, a local resident in Geraldine, but considering my late start and the by now brisk cross wind, I decided to stick to plan.

My route initially followed the main road to the west coast, but traffic was not too heavy, and the road was wide enough that I wasn't bothered by it. Traversing the Canterbury Plains, I was passing through New Zealand's agricultural heartland - kilometer after kilometer of rich pastures dotted first with horses, later with sheep, and acre upon acre of cultivation, and watered by monster irrigation machines.

Reaching Darfield I was feeling leg-weary already, and had pretty much conceded that my objective for the day would be Glentunnel. I lingered in a café over a burger and chips. With only another 15 kilometres to go, I didn't need to hurry, and shortly after leaving Darfield turned off the west coast highway and headed to Glentunnel, where I took a cabin in the camp ground, and by 4 pm was showered and relaxing.

Cathedral Square is without doubt the centre of Christchurch...

A typical view of the Canterbury Plains - cultivation, giant irrigation machines, and sheep...

Glentunnel - Geraldine: Riding the winds of chance...

Wednesday October 27, 2010, 111 km (69 miles) - Total so far: 172 km (107 miles)

Time: 7:03 Distance: 111.17 km Average: 15.7 Max: 49.3 Altitude Gain: 610 m

Yesterday I was blessed with a following wind and, once the morning cloud burned off, fine and sunny weather. Today's forecast promised much the same, and after my normal breakfast fare of oats and tea, I packed my gear and set out at 8am. The route today skirted the foothills of the Southern Alps, and within a few minutes I saw views of snow-covered mountains, and the farmland gave way to trees, with the sounds of forestry work echoing in the distance.

For the first hour or so I rolled along lazily with the wind at my back, but then the effort began to increase as the wind moved around until it was eventually right on my nose, and growing stronger and stronger. I plugged along slowly until eventually I reached a tiny hamlet, aptly named 'Windwhistle' and shortly after plunged into Rakaia Gorge.

I stopped briefly at the café - it wasn't actually open, but the owner gave a me a coffee and then the hard sell on his vacant land, before tackling the first uphill of the tour, the climb out of the gorge - short and steep, and back onto the plains once more. Here the wind slowly swung around behind me again, and I enjoyed a long gradual down hill section where I travelled at over 40 kph without pedaling for kilometer after kilometer.

By the time I reached the café at Alford Forest the sun was very strong. I had two sports drinks to wash down a burger and chips. With more than 70 km still to cover, I was soon back on the bike, making good time with the tailwind before it again swung around to blow on my nose again for quite a distance. Eventually the route changed direction so the wind was once again in my favour, and I covered 20 kilometres at a good pace with very little effort.

After a brief stop for an ice cream at Mayfield, I was faced with 20 kilometres of gun barrel straight road to Geraldine, which I eventually reached, nearing exhaustion, just before six. I had planned to meet up with local rider reader Peter, but the information centre was closed, and when I spotted the holiday park a few hundred meters down the road, settled on a cabin.

After a warm shower the bed beckoned and I was tempted to lie down for a few minutes before trying to contact Peter. Nearly two hours passed before I awoke, and it was too late by then.

Soon after leaving Glentunnel, views of snow-capped mountains appear...



The Rakaia River gouges the plains...

The farm below is for sale - want to buy it? What you can't see in the picture is how hard the wind is blowing...

Rakaia Gorge was carved by melt-water from Mt Hutt in the background...

Geraldine - Fairlie: Lazy day in the foothills...

Thursday October 28, 2010, 46 km (29 miles) - Total so far: 218 km (136 miles)

Time: 3:40 Distance: 46.13 km Average: 12.5 Max: 56.7 Altitude Gain: 560 m

After yesterday's big effort, I was feeling very weary. I haven't found my touring legs yet, and decided on a shorter day today, to Fairlie instead of Lake Tekapo. Since the first serious climbing is expected on these sections, followed by some quite long days, it seemed sensible to take it a little easier for the next two days. I'll have to make it up later if I can.

While breakfasting in the holiday park kitchen, I heard the time check on the radio, and realised I had not allowed for daylight saving when setting my clocks. No wonder I was arriving late each day.
So it was nearly 10 when I rolled out of Geraldine. Knowing it would not be a long section I didn't hurry. It was a windless and cloudy morning - much nicer conditions for riding, after the hot sun of the past two days had left me quite sun and wind burned.

It wasn't long before the road turned up, and I was soon using my lowest gear on a 10% grade. Remembering how difficult I found these grades in Tasmania, I was very pleased with the new lower gearing that I've fitted to the Sabbath. In the hills, cultivation gave way to grazing - sheep, beef cattle, and deer. To one side of the road lie Pleasant Valley. Beautiful Valley lie to the other.

Eventually I reached a pleasant rest area near a river, and stopped to lunch on the salad roll and carrot cake I bought from the dairy (milk bar, café) in Geraldine before tackling the final climb, the biggest for the day, and then a nice long roll down into Fairlie, arriving about 2:30. Here the holiday park has wifi, so I have spent the afternoon updating journals and relaxing.

Tomorrow I tackle Bourke's Pass enroute to Lake Tekapo.

These high fences are not made for wooly jumpers, if you get what I mean - but by the time I got my camera ready, the deer had moved away...

Fairlie - Lake Tekapo: A fairly soggy day, most of the way...

Friday October 29, 2010, 45 km (28 miles) - Total so far: 263 km (164 miles)

Time: 3:40 Distance: 45.09 km Average: 13.0 Max: 55.7 Altitude Gain: 600 m

This morning it was cold, cloudy, and drizzling lightly. With only 43 km and one pass between me and the today's objective, Lake Tekapo, I was in no hurry to set out in the rain, and procrastinated for as long as I could, first over breakfast, then some bike maintenance and finally over dressing and packing. Leaving the holiday park, I reached only as far as the main street when the aroma of fresh coffee lured me into a café for a second breakfast, and a read of the local paper. The day I arrived in NZ a hiker was shot and killed by a hunter, and the media have been in a frenzy about it, and other similar incidents. I realized that stealth camping could be hazardous here.

Eventually I got my wet weather gear on and at 10am set out in very light misting rain, heading for Burke's Pass, about halfway to my destination. The route rose steadily and almost imperceptibly, but every kilometer had to be earned - there were very few opportunities for coasting. In what seemed no time at all I had covered the 20km to the pass, and looked around for the café in the village, but unfortunately it had ceased operations.

I took a few minutes to inspect what was proclaimed as NZ's oldest Union church and to eat the salad roll I had bought for precisely this scenario, but quickly became chilled and set off again for the pass. The climbing began immediately, but in reality the pass was no more than a big hill, and was easily crested. I paused briefly at the top for photo, then enjoyed an exhilarating descent into the Mackenzie Basin and on to Lake Tekapo just a few kilometres further on, where I arrived at only 1:30pm.

The township sprawls along the lake shore and is very touristy - understandably so once you catch a view of the gorgeous turquoise lake and surrounding snow-capped mountains off in the distance. The holiday park is at the far end of the strip, a long way from the shops and facilities so I decided to try my luck at a motel near the pub, and was offered a reasonably priced room, which I was pleased to accept.

So here I am, showered, laundry under way, a bowl of tomato and basil soup with crusty bread and a large cappuccino at my elbow. What a pleasant way to spend an afternoon.
Oh, did I mention the clouds cleared and the sun came out just after crossing the pass? Right now it's lovely, warm and sunny. And once the journal is updated, it'll be time for a pint or two.

The oldest Union church in NZ, at Burke's Pass...

At the top of the pass stands this monument to the pioneer Michael John Burke, after whom the pass was named...

Lake Tekapo - no words necessary...

Lake Tekapo - Omarama: Cycling Mackenzie Country...

Saturday October 30, 2010, 87 km (54 miles) - Total so far: 350 km (218 miles)

Time: 5:14 Distance: 86.84 km Average: 16.5 Max: 46.5 Altitude Gain: 336 m

I'm in Omarama (O-mara-ma) after what has been a glorious day and fantastic cycling. For the first time this morning I got away at a reasonable time after forgoing my usual breakfast and eating at the bakery. It was only 8:20 am when I left, much earlier than I managed the past few days. It was bright and clear, no wind, and about 11 C - perfect cycling weather.

Leaving Lake Tekapo I had planned to take the hydro canal route, but a road closed sign deterred me and I continued along the highway. The canal crossed the highway a few kilometres further on, and seeing several vehicles take the turn-off I followed. What a fantastic ride it was - downhill all the way on a quiet road, cool but sunny, no wind - wonderful.

Presently I arrived at a salmon farm in the middle of the canal. Along the canal banks near the farm there were many people fishing - chasing the odd escapee, and the trout that congregated to eat the feed that the salmon missed. A small shop sold fresh salmon, and I stopped at a picnic table for a morning tea muffin.

Continuing along the canal bank I soon came to its end, where huge penstock pipes carried the water to a power station on the shore of Lake Pukaki. Further on I crossed the dam wall, then enjoyed a long easy downhill run into Twizel, and had a huge burger and chips. I didn't linger very long, as I still had 30 kilometres to go, but with more downhill running and a favourable wind I reached my destination just before 4 pm, and took a cabin in the holiday park.

The past two days have been a real lesson in NZ geography - yesterday after leaving Fairlie I travelled through agricultural midlands, then when I reached Burke's Pass the landscape changed to alpine within a few kilometres, and I was riding through bare brown tussock grass hills, with the signs of ancient glaciation all around. U-shaped valleys, moraines, hard stony terraces, snow-capped mountains and glacial lakes. Amazing! Then south of Twizel there is a vast area of irrigated farms, dominated once again by huge many-wheeled irrigation machines.

Lake Tekapo township...

Hasn't everybody been to Irishman Creek?

MacKenzie country - you almost expect to see a horseman wearing a hat and sheepskin coat...

Salmon farm in the Tekapo - Pukaki hydro canal...

I lost count after 30 pairs of wheels...

Omarama - Wanaka: The longest day (so far)...

Sunday October 31, 2010, 115 km (72 miles) - Total so far: 465 km (289 miles)

Time: 8:00 Distance: 115.17 km Average: 14.4 Max: 54.5 Altitude Gain: 972 m

I'm at the Wanaka Lakeside holiday park. As I type, through the window of my cabin I have a million-dollar view of Roy's Bay, Lake Wanaka - and all around the peaks of the Harris Mountains. If you thought Lake Tekapo was scenic, wait until you see this view.

It was almost 7 pm when I arrived here last night, after calling the holiday park en route to make a booking, as I wasn't sure of arriving before the reception centre closed. As it transpired, reception remains open to 9 pm. And with daylight saving, it is still light even then.

Yesterday's route was a real monster - 115 km including the Lindis Pass and Cluden Hill, on what turned out to be a very hot day once the morning cloud burned off, which it did, predictably, just as I arrived at the foot of the pass proper. And the only services were at Tarras, some 80 km along the way.

Like the day before, I packed early and breakfasted at a store. When the ladies in attendance realised where I was headed, and how I was getting there, they made me huge breakfast which I struggled to eat. Then with a salad roll and fruit loaf for my lunch I set out at 8:35 am. It was cloudy and cool - the temperature was just 12C and I wore arm warmers, finger gloves and gilet to keep the cold out.

From Omarama, the climb to Lindis Pass, some 30 kms away, starts immediately, but gently, and the serious bit doesn't start until the last 10 km, with 2 km of steep climbing nearing the top. It was cool and pleasant riding until I reached the base of the main climb, then the sun came out and I stopped to strip off my cold weather gear. I reached the summit with only one stop to cool down. Despite the grade exceeding 10%, the 22 x 32 low gear I'm using now makes such climbing relatively easy, and I can find a comfortable climbing rhythm that doesn't overload my knees.

At the summit there is a space about the length of bus, then the road plunges down into the Lindis Valley. I stopped briefly for a photo and to put my warm clothing back on then rolled over the edge. It seemed incredibly steep, and I was very glad to be descending rather than ascending. I dare not let the bike build up speed, and modulated the brakes for 10 kilometres until my forearms were beginning to pump. The road levelled out a little just when I though I'd have to stop and rest my arms, and continued to follow the Lindis River, some times through narrow gorges, sometimes through broad valleys. With another 30 kms to Tarras, I stopped briefly to eat my lunch, but didn't linger long as I began to worry about getting through to Wanaka before dark.

Eventually the road pitched up again at Cluden Hill, and near the summit a man came out of a camper van parked at an outlook, called me over and his wife offered a cold drink. They came from Swansea, Tasmania, one of my favourite spots on last year's tour. It was very hot by now and it took no persuading for me to stop briefly before cresting the hill and rolling down to Tarras, where I had a cappuccino and cake, and called the holiday park to make a reservation.

The last 30 kilometres to Wanaka were torture - legs and body were willing enough, but I was getting very saddle-sore, and had to constantly shift position to ease my discomfort. But I arrived in good time, and after a hot shower, wandered stiffly into the town centre and treated myself to a three course dinner and a few pints, before stumbling back to my cabin and collapsing.

Freeloaders said they would help on the pass - but they were no help at all...

Heading for the distant pass, from the cockpit of the Sabbath Silk Route...

There is no clear view of the pass until the final climb - but that is the summit in the gap at the centre of the picture...

I passed...

Wanaka: Lay day or lazy day...

Monday November 1, 2010

After a long and hard ride yesterday, I'm having a lay day here in Wanaka to recover and reorganise before I cross over to the west coast tomorrow. This morning I laundered my clothing before wandering into the township for a little sightseeing, re-stocked with oats from the supermarket, and relaxed over a light lunch. Wanaka is a very pretty town, touristy, more established than Lake Tekapo, but not as brash as nearby Queenstown. It is the resort to the Treble Cone ski fields at Mt Aspiring.

The water in Lake Wanaka does not carry a load of suspended glacial silt, and hence reflects the deep blue of the sky rather than the turquoise of Lake Tekapo. It is quiet here at the moment - the ski season ended a few weeks ago, and the summertime backpackers haven't started to arrive yet.

I've had a little siesta, and will perform some bike maintenance before dinner - I spotted a likely looking place for dinner this morning, and want to make the most of this brief visit. The wild west coast is unlikely to offer anything as sophisticated.

OK, time to attend to the bike. Oh, the bike has been working splendidly. It fulfils its intended function as a middleweight road touring bike to perfection. The combination of light weight and low gears makes climbing steep inclines quite comfortable. The STI fall immediately to hand and shift impeccably. The low pannier mounting position provided by the Cosmo rack, or the sloping top tube make it easy to get a leg over the bike whatever way I choose to mount. The brakes have proven effective on the steep descents I've encountered, and the wheels remain true. The long fenders do a great job of controlling water spray on wet roads. Nothing rattles or squeaks. The only negative has been a slight tendency to shimmy (undulate really), only on very smooth surfaces, but it seems related to front pannier loading, and all but disappeared as my groceries were consumed. Oh, and that bloody Brookes B17 saddle is tenderising my sit bones once again. Not as bad as last tour and will improve no doubt, but uncomfortable on a long day.

Wanaka - as they say, 100% pure New Zealand...

Wanaka - Makarora: The wind has its way...

Tuesday November 2, 2010, 66 km (41 miles) - Total so far: 532 km (331 miles)

Time: 5:57 Distance: 66.49 km Average: 11.1 kph Max: 52.9 kph Altitude Gain: 806 m

Well, what was expected to be quite an easy day distance wise turned out to be anything but. Last night, just after I returned from dinner in Wanaka, a quite strong wind sprung up out of the west. I immediately suspected that this would not be good for me, and that is how it turned out to be.

I took my time getting started this morning, expecting a relatively easy day, especially after some R&R, even thought the route was expected to have quite a bit of up and down. So it was 9:30 am before I finished breakfast on Wanaka's trendy lakeside restaurant strip and left. The undulations started immediately, and so did the winds, although they were manageable at first.

I felt good and made excellent progress along the western shore of Lake Hawea, and by midday reached the days halfway point, a high lookout not far from The Neck, the narrow strip of land that separates Lake Hawea from Lake Wanaka.

This seemed a good spot for lunch, and shortly after I arrived a young Swiss couple rode up from the other direction, and we spent an hour chewing the fat about our tours and impressions of New Zealand. I have had only a few brief encounters with other cycle tourists so far and it was good to spend some time chatting.

By the time I departed my lunch spot the wind had really started to pick up, and once I crossed The Neck the route clung to the steep slopes of Lake Wanaka's eastern shore, which was very exposed. Here I chatted briefly with another tourist, a Kiwi, travelling light on a road bike with only a seat post mounted carrier and minimal luggage.

From here what was an incredibly scenic outlook over the lake was hardly noticed, let alone admired. I struggled to keep balance and avoid wobbling out into the road. For the rest of the way to Makarora it was a real slog against the wind. And arriving at the settlement wasn't the end of the day, the camping ground I was headed for was still another 10 kilometers further up the road.

I'm hoping the winds will ease tomorrow for my leg down to Haast on the west coast, but the forecast is not good - it will likely be wind or rain, or probably both. If conditions are not good I may even be forced to stay here, but that is something I'd prefer to avoid.

On a bright note, this morning I received email from Heather in Nepal. Her trekking group has reached Namche Bazaar, the last place along the Everest trail where there is internet. All members are well and they will head on tomorrow into the high Himalaya leading up to base camp. It was very good to hear from her.

Wanaka is a very trendy place...

Beautiful Lake Hawea...

And just across the Neck, the equally beautiful Lake Wanaka, 45.5 km long, 311m deep, and 277m above sea level, so the bottom is actually below sea level. Note the white caps on its surface...

Makarora - Haast: Humming and haaring to Haast...

Wednesday November 3, 2010, 79 km (49 miles) - Total so far: 611 km (379 miles)

Time: 5:36 Distance: 78.73 Average: 14.0 kph Max: 44.8 kph Altitude Gain: 645 m

Yesterday I arrived in Makarora exhausted and chilled after fighting strong headwinds along the shores of Lake Wanaka. Feeling very despondent I'd pretty much decided I would have to stay put if the wind was still blowing in the morning, and when I awoke to find it still shaking the trees and rattling the roof of my cabin, I pulled the covers over my head and went back to sleep.

When I finally surfaced the wind seemed to have eased a little, so I wandered over to the café for breakfast and to ponder my next move, which was decided, effectively by the breakfast menu - should I have a full breakfast for the road, or something light. I chose the full breakfast, and was committed.

Just as I was about to set off, a little after 10 am, I sensed something was not right with the bike. After a quick check over I noticed a stone had become wedged between the back of the brake pad and the front fork leg, causing the brakes to drag. It was wedged in tight, and I had to prise it out with a screwdriver. Perhaps this contributed to my struggle yesterday, anyway I immediately began to feel more comfortable about my decision to go on.

On the road the wind didn't seem to bother me, and much of the route was sheltered by forest, with only occasional exposed sections. Before long I had entered the ancient beech forests and began climbing to Haast Pass. The main part of the climb was about 3 km and I trundled up it in low gear without any difficulty, and reaching the summit, took a short break to eat my carrot cake morning tea and don my cool weather gear for the descent.

Shortly after leaving the pass I met two tourists ascending the other side - they were walking, something that quite surprised me. I recognised one as a fellow I met briefly near Rakaia Gorge on my second day out - he had mentioned Arthur's Pass and the west coast then. The other was towing a child's trailer overstuffed with gear, and he told me it was his first touring experience. He looked very tired and I wondered if it would be his last.

With 63 km remaining to Haast, I didn't chat long. The descent seemed extremely steep and I took it cautiously, still not fully trusting the cantilever brakes, which just don't have the stopping power of v-brakes. After a photo stop at the Gates of Haast, I continued down and the road began to level off.

Choosing a likely looking rest stop to eat my sandwich, I soon had my first experience of the infamous NZ sandfly. Within moments of stopping they attacked my exposed legs, and I had to brush them away continuously while bolting down my sandwich.

That was to be my last stop, as the sandflies didn't bother me while on the move, so I just kept on moving along a rolling but predominately downhill landscape to Haast, arriving at 5pm, and in much better shape than yesterday, both physically and mentally.

Approaching Haast Pass..

Haast Pass - a wheel in Otago, and a wheel in Westland...

The gates of hell, if you are heading south - but I'm going the other way...

Haast: Holed up in Haast...

Thursday November 4, 2010

The New Zealand west coast is known for its wild and windy weather, and this morning bought my first encounter with it. Overnight rain had been predicted, so I wasn't surprised to wake this morning to the sound of rain, and when I stepped outside for an inspection, strong gusty north-west winds too. If this weather pattern continued through the day it would mean riding into a strong headwind and frequent rain squalls, and then the prospect of getting into my tent, wet, cold and miserable.

On the other hand, the rain is expected to be followed by a southerly change that would push me along the coast, and possibly I could make up for lost time. I waited until check out time to see if the conditions would abate, but if anything they grew even more wild, and eventually I had to choose: hit the road or stay another night. There was no sense in going out in such conditions - I chose to stay.

I had been tempted to spend a day in Makarora, but fortunately chose to continue at the last moment. Luckily I did so, otherwise I would either have spent a horrible crossing the Haast Pass, or would have been forced to waste away a second day in Makarora.

The southerly change is expected to pass through this evening, and I'm hoping a following wind will help me cover the route for two planned days travel in one - 120 kilometres to Fox Glacier. Well - fingers crossed. As I type, the rain is beating on the roof once again, and I'm very pleased not to be out cycling in it.

I have whiled away the time reading, and chatting to some whitebait fishermen. It is whitebait season and Haast is full of fishermen hoping for a good catch. Whitebait are the tiny fry of a local fish species, and at this time of the year congregate in huge schools around the river mouths - the fishermen scoop them up with long tapered nets on poles. The tiny fish are pressed whole into patties and fried, and are very a much a local delicacy. I haven't tried them yet, but will no doubt have an opportunity as I travel the west coast over the next week.

Haast - Fox Glacier: A double dose of fun...

Friday November 5, 2010, 123 km (77 miles) - Total so far: 734 km (456 miles)

Time: 8:16 Distance: 123.3 km Average: 14.9 kph Max: 57.1 kph Altitude Gain: 1000 m

Yesterday's windy wet weather began to clear by late afternoon, and this morning dawned clear, cold and calm. I had decided that given favourable conditions I would try to make up for lost time by combining two sections, making one long 120 kilometre run to Fox Glacier. The café did not open until 8:30, but there was no choice but to wait, as there are no services along the way and I wasn't going to ride 120 kilometres on a bowl of oats. Eventually I was able to set out, with a full tummy and supplies for the day on board.

Heading north from Haast, the road was flat, and with a gentle but cool breeze on my back I made excellent time through coastal woodlands to Knights Point, where the road climbed over three steep rocky headlands. I stopped briefly for morning tea at the lookout, then continued on to Lake Paringa, the site where I had previously intended to overnight. Here I had another brief stop for a sandwich, but with 70 kilometres still to go, I didn't linger - besides the sandflies made stopping hell, even though I had worn leg and arm warmers against the cool air.

A little further on, I came to an unexpected café at Paringa River. There is a salmon farm here and the café sells all kinds of salmon products. I was surprised to find several bus loads of tourists already there, but stopped anyway for a second lunch. The coffee was excellent.

It was getting late and I still had far to travel. Shortly after leaving Paringa River I met a young woman, German I think heading south, and stopped briefly to exchange hellos. I had been riding strongly after an enforced lay day, but now was beginning to tire.

At Bruce Beach the beach was littered with debris, probably from the previous days wild weather. It has become de rigeur for tourists to build a little cairn along the beach front, however the seas had been breaking across the road and had knocked many down. I didn't bother to add to those still standing.

Soon after the road began to rise towards Fox Glacier, and the ride became a real slog. The last 20 kilometers seemed to take forever, and as the light waned the temperature dropped, and rain started to fall, very lightly at first, but steadily getting heavier. Finally arriving at almost 7 pm, wet, chilled and exhausted, I went to the first backpacker I saw and took a room. After a warming shower I headed off to the pub for a steak and beer, and shortly after returning to my room collapsed in to bed and fell into a deep sleep.

The mountains above Haast Village have a fresh dusting of snow after yesterday's wild weather...

Haast Bridge is 800 metres long...

Knights Point - next landfall Australia...


Bruce Beach is littered with storm debris...


Fox Glacier - Whataroa: What a surprise...

Saturday November 6, 2010, 56 km (35 miles) - Total so far: 790 km (491 miles)

Time: 4:53 Distance: 55.59 km Average: 11.3 kph Max: 53.0 kph Altitude Gain: 724 m

Yesterday I was delighted to make up the day I had lost due to weather, so I left Fox Glacier in high spirits. It's not a particularly pleasant place - it exists solely to exploit tourists in a blatantly crass commercial sort of way. So I after breakfasted in a local café I stocked up with food and set out on what I expected to be a relatively easy day of only 80 odd kilometres. The guide mentions the crossing of three saddles in the 25 kilometres between Fox Glacier and Franz Josef, but I didn't think they would be unduly difficult.

How wrong I was. The climbing started immediately from the centre of the settlement and continued unrelentingly for 5 kilometres, before plunging down and then starting upward all over again. I saw grades of 14% on my computer. My legs, still stiff from yesterdays long effort, didn't have a chance to warm up before the climbing started. The third saddle was easier, but all three were compressed into a distance of a little over 10 kilometres. It was a brutal start to the day, and seemed much harder than any of the passes I've crossed.

Reaching Franz Josef at midday, my legs were already feeling tired, and I considered stopping right there, as it was still another 60 kilometres to reach Hari Hari, my goal for the day. After a light lunch I decide to press on at least to Whataroa (pronounced Fataroa by the locals), where I arrived at 3:45pm, and declared stumps.

Trying to make up lost time has been counter-productive, I'm exhausting myself and it's taking the enjoyment out of riding - I barely have time to take in my surroundings. It seem likely I will just have to accept my itinerary was a little ambitious, and will have to be modified. I'll see how the next few days go, but I might have to let go of my plan to cross Arthur's Pass to end the tour.

I swear - Franz Josef glacier is just up there a bit...

Whataroa - Ross: Looking for gold...

Sunday November 7, 2010

Time: 5:24 Distance: 77.34 km Average: 14.2 kph Max: 55.6 kph Altitude Gain: 672 m

Last night at the Whataroa Hotel, where the locals had gathered to watch New Zealand take on Australia in a four nations rugby league match, it was suggested that Ross would be a sensible goal for the next day, at roughly halfway to Greymouth. I didn't stick around to see the result of the match, but the Kangaroos won convincingly, adding to the Wallabies success of last week.

So after a breakfast of porridge and tea, I set out just before 9 am, on a lovely cool, calm morning. It was probably the clearest day I've had on this tour, and not far along the road I was rewarded with the best view of Aoraki/Mt Cook that I've seen - the one little patch of cloud remaining however still obscured the summit.

I'm travelling now through farmlands again, after the dense bush landscapes to the south the country is now dedicated to dairy farming and cows predominate.

Soon Mt Hercules loomed but except for the last 600 meters was a fairly easy grade and presented no great difficulty. Then it was an exhilarating downhill run all the way to Hari Hari, chased by a determined magpie.

I found Jan from Belgium at the café, enjoying a rest before tackling Mt Hercules heading south. I'd already encountered two tourists - a couple were descending the mount but didn't stop to talk. After a long stop chewing the fat with Jan I set out to finish the job, but just as I was about to leave, a young Irishman (Pat, as I recall) arrived, and soon after leaving I encountered a happy, bubbling kiwi girl, towing a Bob trailer behind her MTB. Five tourists in a day is the most I've encountered so far.

After passing the very scenic Lake Ianthe the road began a long stretch of wearying undulations, then rejoining the coast, passed by an area of major excavations which turned out to be a gold mine, and shortly after I arrived in Ross. I took a room in the motel and did my laundry, then went to a local café where Sunday roast was on offer and had a very comforting home-style meal and a couple of pints.

Since my decidedly unpleasant lunch stop at Pleasant Flat, descending Haast Pass, where I was attacked by swarms of sandflies, I've made sure to keep my legs and arms covered, but the bites I suffered are now itching unbearably, and it's difficult to resist the urge to scratch them. If you are coming this way, be sure to cover up, and bring insect repellent.

Edit: I discovered that Paraderm Plus cream, recommended by another cycle tourist for saddle sores, has an anesthetic property that stops the itching.

At last, a clear day. That's the summit of Mt Tasman at the back I think, and Mt Cook to the right, but obsured by the remmnants of the long white cloud...

With Jan from Belgium, at Hari Hari...

Ross - Hokitika: A very nice place to do nothing...

Monday November 8, 2010, 27 km (17 miles) - Total so far: 817 km (508 miles)

Time: 1:35 Distance: 27.17 km Average: 17.1 kph Max: 45.4 kph Altitude Gain: 94 m

Yesterday I was a little disappointed to make it only to Ross before my legs protested. But I was well looked after by the proprietor of the motel, who let me use the facilities to do my laundry, and really could not have been more hospitable. But this morning my legs felt heavy and stiff, and it seemed to take forever to eat, pack up and get going.

It was a glorious morning however, and once rolling everything seemed to be going my way - the road surface was smooth and fast, the grades easy, and the breeze at my back. My legs woke up and soon I was bowling along at more than 20 kph, and enjoying the best riding I have had on the west coast.

Reviewing my itinerary yesterday, I realised that on reaching Greymouth, my goal for today, I would be only one day behind, and my overall plan was probably still achievable. But I was really keen to spend my lay day in Hokitika rather than Greymouth, as recommended by the other tourists I've met. As I rode this morning my mind was made up - I'd have a short day to Hoki and spend the afternoon looking around, then another short day into Greymouth tomorrow, and forgo the lay day.

So only 90 minutes after leaving Ross I arrived in Hoki, set myself up in the local backpacker, and set off on foot to explore the town precincts. While strongly tourist oriented, I'd have to say my advisers where absolutely right - it is a delightful little place, and I'm pleased to spend a little time here.

Whitebaiters working the Hokitika river mouth. Notice the storm debris littering the far bank..

Main street, Hoki in rush hour - a nice place to be...